Accommodation in Kuhistoni Mastchoh District (Upper Zarafshon)
The only formal accommodation in Kuhistoni Mastchoh District is “Ustod Fayzullo’s Guest House” in the village of Langar. Nobody in the village uses the name (Guesthouse “Habib”) that was given to the guesthouse by the Zerafshan Tourism Development Association. The owner is Fayzullo Kholov. Everybody in this village and most people in the villages nearby know him. So just ask for “Ustod Fayzullo,“ or use the map on your phone to get to his house, labelled “Ustod Fayzullo’s Guest House.“
He is a professor of geography. Address him as “Ustod Fayzullo.” Ustod in this context means “professor.” You might instead deal with one of his adult sons. He and his sons speak Tajik and Russian.
This guest house rarely sees tourists, unlike guest houses in the Fann Mountains and on the Pamir Highway. So it would be very helpful if you could call ahead of time. The phone # is +992 928 911051
The cost as listed by the Zerafshan Tourism Development Association is $17 per person for accommodation plus dinner and breakfast. However, I find this price to be out of date considering the massive cost of living increases in Tajikistan (far above what locals have experienced in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan). I think $20 per person is fair (as of summer 2022 this was, conveniently, a 200 Somoni banknote).
The rooms are excellent and the meals/food is more than enough. You sleep on a “kurpacha” (a soft roll-out mattress). There is a squat toilet (very clean and not smelly) and warm water for washing. Electricity was 24 hours per day when I visited in late June 2022. And importantly – for those who arrive not by car but on foot from the mountains – there are numerous electrical power outlets/plugs to charge batteries and devices. Langar is scenic and quiet. No grocery store (as of summer 2022).
Important note: there are many villages in Tajikistan named Langar. Make sure you have chosen on the map the Langar that is next to the Zarafshon river.
How to get to Langar? Check out our instructions on how to get to Langar.
Photo below: Ustod Fayzullo’s Guesthouse. The sign reads “Village of Langar, 18.“ The house number is 18; there are no street names.
Accommodation on your way to Kuhistoni Mastchoh District
If you are looking for reliable accommodation in the crossroads town of Ayni, the most convenient place is Hotel Sughd (Меҳмонхона СУҒД). Google Maps link. This is close to shared transportation stops.
Between Ayni and the Kuhistoni Mastchoh District is the large village of Veshab. There are two guesthouses here: Sari Osiyo Homestay (English spoken) and Chormavze Homestay. You can find them on any map app that uses OSM data.
Last updated: 7 September 2022